Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Six Interrupted Hours of Handstitching...

and this is what I have to show for it:

Butterick 2564 and the Butterick 5429 twist top

All hems, sleeves, and one neckline were slip stitched into place. More (better!) photos and pattern reviews to come later.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Coco at Colette's

This week at the Colette Patterns' blog I explored the designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. It is illustrated with more of these pictures by Karl Lagerfeld. Really!!

Check it out here.

Images: blue silk evening dress 1927, red chiffon day dress 1922. From Chanel by Harold Koda.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Still Trying...UPDATED

I have a dilemma with M5686. I'm not so sure about the fit even if I do re cut another muslin in size 12. I let out the bodice pleats and the waist darts and it was still strangely small. It has something to do with the shoulders and armholes. So, how could adding only a quarter inch to each seam (1" total) make it fit? Also, the fact that I could not find online even one person who had made this dress without problems doesn't help it one bit. Such a cute design but discontinued so early makes me wonder too.

Remember, I had already cut the pattern so when repairing it I had to fudge a little bit and be creative about what I cut off. The pattern is now out of print so I can't just go and buy the next size up. I checked the Internet and the only copies of this pattern up for sale are the same size I have.

Does anyone have M5686 in a size 14-16-18 that they want to get rid of? If so, I will send you any pattern in my Etsy store that you want in exchange.

I looked through my pattern stash to see if there was another dress I wanted to use instead. Unfortunately, not in this fabric. I really wanted a Mad Men-like dress in this print and most of my other dresses are more loose and shift-like.

M6011 M5686

McCall's did bring out another dress pattern, M6011 (in the same collection, Easy stitch 'n save) with almost the same bodice and I'm tempted to go buy that one and frankenpattern it with this skirt. What do you think? It's only $3 or is it not worth the trouble?

Vogue 8701

UPDATE: Now I'm thinking Vogue 8701 for the bodice? Closer still, but not as cheap a replacement.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Sewing and Draping Classes in Richmond, VA

A year ago, I wrote about a draping class that was being offered at our local community art center, the Visual Arts Center of Richmond. Well, this coming Winter/Spring semester has a few more incredible sewing/fiber arts classes available. Lucky for me I have already been volunteering for them so I am eligible for a discount off the class price. Check these two out (there are more here)!

Beginning Pattern Making & Drafting

Can’t find generic clothing patterns at stores in Richmond that fulfill your needs? Want to make your own clothing patterns from your own designs with your own personal measurements? This class teaches beginning pattern makers how to make the basic “sloper” pattern from your own personal measurements. The sloper is then manipulated to create any clothing design. Students will leave at the end of class with their personal slopers, a muslin mock-up to insure fit, the patterns they draft from those, and a simple sewn garment if time allows. Sewing skills are a requirement due to the amount of information learned.

Dress Forms 101: Pattern Drafting & Draping - Intermediate/Advanced

In this class students will learn the basics of flat designing and draping (the oldest design method) and the interaction of the two through construction techniques. Students will learn how to take personal measurements for drafting accurate patterns and how to adjust industry patterns and for personal fit. Students will construct one garment from a foundation pattern and use the dress form to support proper fitting. Although this is a technical class, demonstrations will help students convert techniques for quick and easy sewing in and out of the classroom. Students will be introduced to tools of the trade for drafting and draping and discussions will include how to “pad-out” the dress form for personal fit. Fashion design and textile usage will also be reviewed.

The prices range from $180 for eight 2 1/2 hour-long sessions to $220 for ten 2 1/2 hour-long classes. That makes the price per session only $18 to $22. Very doable. The original draping class from last year(which I couldn't afford at the time) was $140 has now increased to $180 but it would be worth it, right?

So, if you are in or near enough to Richmond, please sign yourself up for one of these classes. I'll be sitting them out this semester because I'll be taking two night classes on Wednesdays and Thursdays already. However, if no one signs up for these they might not be offered when I CAN take them.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Hanging at Colettes

Hey, guys!

I have great news. I've been reading a lot about fashion designers lately and I've found a way to put that knowlege to great use. Perhaps you already know but I've been submitting little posts on certain designers to the lovely Sarai of Colette Patterns and she has graciously published them on the past two Wednesdays. Please join me as I learn more about the heavy hitters of fashion's past.

Tomorrow's entry will be female designer, Madeleine Vionnet, most famously known as the developer of the bias cut.

Monday, November 15, 2010

A Muslin Is A Very Very Good Thing

Well, this weekend I finished my McCall's 5686 bodice muslin. I did my normal change where I cut the bodice out as a 10 (I was assuming excess Big 4 pattern ease) and tapered out to a 12 at the waist. BIG mistake. It was WAY too small! I felt like I was trying on a child's outfit.

It seems someone has been in denial about how a few pounds weight gain has effected her figure. Not only do I have pants that I can't button but it seems my fairly modest bosom has enlarged as well. Funny how something I would have been estatic about in junior high is no longer good news. Nothing fits or if it does, I at least can tell that it's straining.

When I say a few pounds, I really only mean a few, five to be exact. Which means that my clothes were probably already close to not fitting last fall. So, where I thought I was a Big 4 size 12 I am now a 14. Size-wise I have no problems with that, in fact my proportions fit that size much better at waist and hip. However, those 109 patterns that I already own and have always held out that one day I would make for myself? Hello! Not all of them go up to 14. I am the queen of patterns sized (8-10-12). When you only have to widen the hips a bit, no problem, but my new measurements (as of this morning) seem to suggest FBAs will be in my future.
Dum Dum DUm DUM
So on to muslim number 2, right after I tape some paper to my already cut pattern and redraw those size 12 lines. Wish me luck.

This is a great example of why a muslin is important. Also a warning that you should take your measurements every few projects or so.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Answered My Own Sherlock Question

Since the first episode of Sherlock, I've been intriqued by Dr. Watson's (Martin Freeman) military-style jacket. Because of the dark scenes, I couldn't figure out what exactly was on his shoulder. As it turns out, he had leather patches on both elbows and on only one shoulder. I posed a question to the internet about the jacket, not knowing that the show's costumes had already made a splash in England. Honestly, the only thing I noticed was that one jacket! Well, I got my answer from Sarah Arthur, costume designer for the series:

Where did Watson's coat come from? The black jacket is from Haversack... I wasn't overly keen on Watson's original coat from the pilot - but [the character] had just come out of the army so I knew where they were coming from. I wanted to keep him old school, with check shirts, but make it a little bit more interesting.

However, a clearer and lighter picture shows that the jacket isn't as I imagined in my head. It's a regular canvas shooting jacket (much like the Barn coats that L.L. Bean is famous for) with a corduroy collar and the three leather patches. I had imagined it in wool melton, with somewhat pea-coat styling. Oh well, it's not like I was going to buy it for myself anyway.

Note: I think I found it: Haversack Style: 470928, Black cotton shooting jacket with black corduroy collar, leather shoulder guard, two chest pockets, hammered press studs, button front, two large bellows pockets and buttoned, vented cuffs. £725.00 ($1,170 US)

Monday, November 08, 2010

Why, Sherlock, Why?

How many were shocked and somewhat disappointed by the lack of conclusion to the three episode series of Sherlock?

I know that they are planning on another series but still, according to Masterpiece Mystery scheduling, we'll have to wait until this time next year to find out what happens. And you know something amazing must happen because it doesn't look like our heroes have a chance at all of surviving, even if they do take down Moriarty.

Oh, and speaking of James "Jim" Moriarty? That actor, Andrew Scott, was amazing. Now, that is the way to play a diabolical genius that is capable of anything. His great acting, mannerisms, and strange voice inflections were all working for him! He may not have gravitas, but I sure would be scared in a small space with him, wouldn't you?!

So I still love this series but to wait a year...

Flashback to Coraline Goodness

You know I loved the movie Coraline when it came out. The 3-D version was lovely, still can't forget the fireflies. I even admired the plastic figurines that were available. However, what I loved the most about the film is that it was stop motion and therefore, every little prop or costume was real and hand made. Here is a great interview with Coraline's costume designer, Deborah Cook from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) Museum's blog. Enjoy!

Deborah Cook Interview

Just look at those little clothes AND the shoes! I could seriously squeal right now.

Image: FIDM blog

Thursday, November 04, 2010

Observations From My Past

About nine years ago, while visiting California, a friend and I were exploring Montana Avenue in Santa Monica, CA. My friend decided to step into a nearby Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf shop. I was still checking out the area when I decided to follow her in. Coming around the corner, I almost ran right into a woman walking to her car with coffees in her hand. We both smiled at each other and said ‘hi.’ The weird thing is I said 'hi' in the tone of voice I would use for someone I knew and was surprised to see there. It took a minute for me to realize that the woman was not really someone that I knew but actress Patricia Wettig of thirtysomething, Alias, and now Brothers & Sisters.

  1. Having met or been in the presence of celebrities before in my career history*, I had never experienced feeling that I “knew" them. However, I did spend an hour a week, for years with her. In fact, I still am. That is more time than many of us might get to spend with some of our closest friends.
  2. She was naturally beautiful in real life. What I remember is that her whole face seemed to be glowing, from her eyes to her smile. I have always held to my impression that she looked better in person than she ever looked on TV and in magazines. To this day, you can see that she’s taking to aging naturally and gracefully.

The best thing: Even though she probably read my tone of voice as “Oh, I recognize you!” she still seemed genuinely friendly and had no trepidation or “fan fear” in her eyes. Thanks, P.W.!

*Strangely, on another business trip to California, I not only met the late Tony Curtis but also ate dinner at the table next to Carol Kane, Danny DeVito, and Rhea Pearlman as they held some sort of celebration for Carol. Danny was videotaping the whole thing, so it’s weird to know there is a good chance I am in Danny DeVito’s personal home movies?!

Tuesday, November 02, 2010

Fall Wardrobe Progress Report

I'm done with my muslin of the McCall's 4052 bodice. Though I'm made this dress before, I always though the shoulder and bust area of that one was too loose. So this time I cut the bodice pieces as a size 10 and tapered the side pieces out to a 14 at the waistline. Yep, a difference of two sizes, but it fits perfectly now. I have to figure how to work with this plaid on the six separate princess bodice pieces. I'd like to play with the bias but I'm scared how that might effect the fit. I'm thinking only the middle pieces on the bias and matching the side pieces (on grain) at the side seams. Any advice? Any images that you can direct me to on what I can do with the plaid?

Before I start on the final version of that dress I am first going to do a muslin of the bodice on McCall's 5686. I'm scared that the neckline might be too wide for my shoulders. So then, once I fix any kinks there I can cut out both dresses, finish up one dress, and then immediately move on to the other. Or, at least that's the plan.

However, the very first finished project out of the pack will be a wearable muslin (I hope!) of the Butterick 5429 twist top. I'll be using my wonderful polka-dot gift from Kyle since I want to make these in knits instead of wovens. I think I might make the short sleeve one as I think the long sleeves might be too much polka-dotted goodness on me. So, woo hoo for me, using up some of my stash!